Method of and apparatus for waving hair



sept. 25, 1934e J. MACDONALD I 11,974,924

METHOD OF AND APPARATUS FOR WAVING HAIR original Filed sept. 1e, 1931 2 Sheets-Sheet 1 Sept. 25, 1934., MACDONALD 1,974,924

METHOD OF AND APPARATUS FOR WAVING HAIR original Filed sept. 1e, 1931 2 sheets-sheet 2 l 1% MMamuummmmlimmulini INVENTQR- ATTORNEY- Patented Sept. 25, 1934 METHOD F' AND APPARATUS FOR WAVING HAIR James Macdonald, New York, N. Y.

Refiled for abandoned application Serial No..

563,042, September 16, 1931. This applicaf tion `lannary 20, 1934, Serial No. 707,567

1ly Claims.

The present application is a reling of my application Serial No. 563,042, filed September 16, 1931, allowed July th, 1932.

The present invention relates to a method o waving hair and apparatus adapted for carrying outthe method. It has long been the object of inventors in the hair waving art to produce what is known as a Marcel wave in the form of a permanent wave, i. e., one which will remain permanently in the hair until new hair grows out and replaces the portion which has been waved, the permanent wave withstanding repeated shampooing.

Heretofore, permanent waves have only been produced in the form of small curls or kinks which are not similar in appearance to a natural wave and whichgdo not give the effect most desired; At the present time it is common practice to produce a permanent wave in small curls, ringlets or kinks and then water-wave the hair to produce the larger curls or Waves simulating natural hair waves. The diculty with this last method is that the customer has to undergo the expense and annoyance of having the permanent wave made rst, and then having the water wave.

Another disadvantage of this method is that the water wave will only last until the hair is shampooed and sometimes a shorter period.

The customer, therefore, has the expense and trouble incident to the permanent wave operation, as well as vthe trouble and expense of repeated water waves, because the latter wave is not permarient but only lasts somewhat longer than a simple wave produced by a waving iron.

The object of my invention is to provide a method and apparatus for waving the hair, by means of which a permanent wave may be produced having the effect of large curves or largev deep waves corresponding with what is commonly known as a Marcel wave, and which closely resembles natural hair waves. Instead of the small ringlets or kinks, a full deep wave may be produced which is permanent in character, so that it will last as long as the hair which. is waved lasts, or until new hair grows out and replaces it. At the completion of the waving process the hair may be shampooed or not, and when dry it is imply combed out and falls in the full deep waves referred to, without any subsequent operation. From day to day it is only necessary to comb the hair and the full deep wave will be present. The hair may also be shampooed at any time without removing the wave. i

In the preferred operation the hair is coiled 55. or wound upon curling pins to produce what is known as a Croquignole wave or ringlet. A lock of hair is rst divided so that small adjacent strands are separated to lie alternately in different directions to produce two locks of hair from a single original lock, each of the separate locks being composedy of small strands alternating with the strands vof the opposite lock of hair. Each of the divided locks is coiled or wound upon a curling pin but in opposite directions; and while the hair is thus Wound upon the curling pins it is subjected rtomoisture and heat for the usual baking operation to render the wave permanent.

vAny of the well-known solutions may be applied to set the wave in conjunction with the moisture and heat.. When the divided locks of hair have been permanently waved while wound in opposite directions, the heater is removed, as well Vas the curling device, and the whole lock, composing the two divided locks, will be combed out togetherwith an ordinary hair comb. The tendency of one part of the hair is to curve in one direction and the tendency of the other strandsin-the combined lock of hair tends to curl in an opposite direction. As a result, when the differently 'curved strands are combed out and mingled, the lock as a whole will take on the'shape of a deep,.full Marcel wave. This wave will be permanent in the sense that it will Withstand repeated shampooing and will remain in this condition until new hair grows out from the head and replaces the portion which has been waved.A In other words, it is as permanent as any wave heretofore produced.

The apparatus, in addition to means for hold-V ing a look of hair separated from the remainder of the hair on the head, includes a frame for holding the curling pins with the hair wound upon them anda separator or divider over which the hair may be combed for the purpose of dividing a single lock into two locks, each consisting of small strands alternately arranged in relation to the strands ofv the opposite lock along a givenv line. This divider is in the form of a toothed member having teeth of different relative lengths one set being relatively long or deep and the other being relatively short or shallow, so that when' the hair is brushed or combed against the teeth some of the strands will rest on the roots of the longer teeth and others will rest on the roots of the shorter teeth.

A simple instrument, such as a hairpin, may then be lpassed between the divided strands for the purpose of dividing a single lock of hair into two separate'locks, each containing one-half of the original or single strand. The divided locks may then be moved apart ready for the waving operation and the divider is made detachable from the holder or frame in order to be moved out of the way while the winding and heating operations are being carried on.

The divider referred to I deem to be in itself a novel device which may not only be used in conjunction with the apparatus shown and described herein, but it may be also used in other ways where it is desired to divide a lock of hair.

The apparatus includes a pair of members such as rubber-covered rollers which are adapted to be clamped upon a look of hair adjacent the head to hold it separated from the remainder of the hair on the head while the waving operations are being carried out on the separated lock. There is a frame associated with these clamping members which serves to hold and support the curling pins with the hair wound upon them as y well as to detachably hold the divider. The heating device, preferably of the electrical type, is received upon and around the curling pins and hair and is adapted to supply the heat for carrying out the waving operation. The present device is simple and inexpensive.

Another advantage of the present apparatus is that fewer devices are necessary for each hairdressers equipment because there are at least two winding pins for eachdevice and therefore each heating device will operate upon at least twice as much hair as in the former single devices heretofore used. Other advantages and objects will be set forth in theirollowing detailed description of my invention.

In the drawings forming part of this application,

Figure 1 is a plan view of the device for clamping a lock of hair near the head,

Figure 2 is an end view thereof,

Figure 3 is a side elevation of the same,

Figure 4 is a sectional view taken on the line 4--4 of Figure 3,

Figure 5 is a sectional view taken on the line 5--5 of Figure 6, showing the hair clamping device with the dividing member arranged in' opera;- tive position,

Figure 6 is a sectional View of the same parts taken on the line 6-6 of Figure 5,

Figure-'7` is a perspective viewof the divider,

Figure 8 is an end View showing the clamping device and the divider in the first position withthe lock of hair ready to be brushed down over the divider, and in this view the end of the divider is broken off to more clearly disclose the y position of the lock of hair,

held in the frame and with the hair Wound thereon,

Figure 13 is an elevation of one of thecurling pms,

Figure 14 is a plan view of the twofclamping rollers with the hair completely divided, and

Figure 15 is a perspective view showingapproximately the form or" wave` produced inthe hair with the present method and apparatus;

The 'device consists primarilyfof-a framehavingY members. for clamping a` lock of hair close to the head to hold the lock segregated from the remainder of the hair on the head. If the wave is of the Croquignole type the lock of hair to be clamped will be relatively broad. have shown two clamping members 1, 2 in the form of tubular bars provided with a covering 3 of compressible material, preferably rubber. There are frame members 4, 5 disposed in parallel relation and at opposite ends of the bars 1, 2. The bar 1 is in the form of a hollow tube and one member 6 of the frame extends through the tube and is held there "ny a driving t.

At one end the member 6 has an angular bracket 7 to which the laterally extending plate 4 is connected by means of the rivets 8 or any other convenient connection. The end of the member 6 extending beyond the right hand end of the tubular member l in Figure 4 has the bracket 9, and there is connected with it an arm 1G by means of a pivotal pin l1; and this arm projects laterally from a bar 12 which latter extends through the bore of the tubular member 2 being fastened therein by a driving fit. v

The tubular members 1, 2 are therefore pivot-l ally connected with each other at the pin 1l so that they may be moved apart as shown in dotted lines in Figure 4, or they may be clamped with their peripheries in Contact lengthwise. There is a link 13 shown as pivoted on one end' ofthe bar 6 and on the free end of this link there is 'a clamping lever 14 having a cam surface 15 adapted to engage in the curved recess 16' of the bar 6V when the lever is swung, so that the two tubular members 1, 2 may be pressed toward each other to clamp a lock of hair which passes through the bight of these two members. Y r

The two plates 4, 5 lie parallel to each other at opposite ends of the device when the tubular members are in close parallel relation, as shown in Figures 1;, 2', Band 4. This-type of clamp is not new, per se, in theV present case. Each of the end plates 4, 5 has two top recesses or slots 17, the slotsin the opposite plates being in line with each other when the tubular members are in closed position. These slots are adapted to receive the ends of the curling pins, aswill be hereinafter set forth". In addition to the slots for' holding the curling pins, I have shown intermediate the same the slots 18 one in each of the plates V4, 5 for detachably receiving the hair divider.

' The device for dividing hair is shown' in detaill in Figure '7 and its application to the remainder of thedevice is shown-in various other views. The divider consists of a plate 19 adapted'to be received into the slots 18 vertically and the bent ends 20 of the divider prevent the latter from shifting lengthwise in the frame. The divider has'a rowl of teeth 21 along its upper edgeformed by a series of parallel slots out the same width from top to bottom. The teeth are preferably not pointed or rounded. Their sides are preferably square to assist theequal division of the hair.

Certain of the slots 22 between the'tee'th have their bases or roots 23 arranged along the same horizontal level on the divider, whereas other slots 24 havetheir roots or bases 25 along a line which is' much deeper frein-the top ends of the teeth than the roots 23. In the construction'of the divider illustrated, which is the preferred form, the long and short slots' 22, 25 alternate with eachother throughout the length of the divider.

There are at least two pins for eachwaving device and they are preferably made as shown in Figures l1; V12 and 13; These pins are of welly known construction and they' consist principally of the following:

There is a body 26 on which a lock of hair is adapted to be wound, and this body is usually formed with a smaller central portion and taperu ing gradually to a greater thickness toward each end, as illustrated in Figure 13. One end of the body has a stud 27 projecting from it, and this is provided with a head 28 in the form oi a nut which may be gripped by a winding lzey or pliers, for the purpose of turning the pin. At the oppcsite end of the body there is a pintie 2s of polygonal cross section, preferably square, and this is connected with the body 26 by means of a clutch,

' not shown, which grips the body in one direction and is released when turned in the opposite direction; and as the construction of the pin is well known, I have not shown the interior parts.

There is a pivot-ed finger 30 connected with the body of the pin by the hinge pin 31 and this iinger is adapted to be pressed against the lock of hair when the first turn or two has been made around the body of the pin, so that subsequent turns of the pin wiil be wound over the finger 30. The finger 30 serves to clamp the free end of the hair upon the pin to hold it while the haii is being wound. v

As shown in Figure 12, the winding pins are adapted to be inserted into the slots 17 of the frame in reverse positions; that is to say, the winding nut 28 of one of the curling pins is directed to the right in this figure, whereas the nut end of the other pin is directed to the left. The round portion of the stud 2*? of each pin will seat in a slot 17 of the end plates and they turn freely therein, whereas the rectangular pintles 29 aiso engage in the corresponding slots 17 but when seated in these slots the pintles are prevented from turning.

Any type of heating device may be used for heating or baking the hair, and in the drawings I have shown a heating device consisting of a shell 32 enclosing therein an electric heating unit (not shown) to which current is fed by means f1 of the cable 33. The shell of the heating device is provided with end plates 84 which have projections 35 extending partly in between the tubes 1, 2. To the shell 32 are connected plates 36 which extend partly around the shell and have their lower ends 37 extending laterally toward each other to partly enclose the hair on the curlers, these bottom plates lying inside of the end plates 4, 5 of the waving device. One of the members 36 is pivotally connected with the shell 1 32 so that it may be swung outwardly by pressing on the handles 38 for the purpose of releasing one of the bottom members 37 from the waving device, in order to permit the heating device to be detached.

Operation The first step in the waving of the hair is to comb out from the head a lock of hair, as shown at 39, and as stated above, this will usually be a comparatively wide lock, the roots of which extend substantially in a line along the head. The waving device shown in Figures 1 to 4 inclusive is opened as shown by dotted lines in Figure 4 to separate the rollers 1, 2. The lock of hair is passed upwardly between the rollers so that when the rollers are closed against each other the lock of hair which has been combed apart from the other hair on the head, passes upwardly through the bight of the rollers, as shown in Figure 8. The rollers are closed upon the hair by swinging the lever 14 so that the cam surface l5 of this lever presses on the curved recess 16 of the bar 12 to press the rollers toward each other and to compress the loch of hair.

As the rollers are covered with rubber, the latter may be more or less compressed against the hair and may yield locally to correspond with the thickness of the lock of hair at different parts. The operations just described bring about the condition shown in Figure 8 so that the waving device lies close to the head with a lock of hair passing upwardly through the bight of the rollers. In this view the distance of the waving device from the head is somewhat exaggerated in order to illustrate the operation, but in most cases the device will be placed as close as possible to the scalp in order that the hair will be waved close to the scalp.

The separator shown in Figure 'l may now be placed upon the plates 4, 5 by inserting it edgewise in the slots i8 with the turned ends 20 disposed outside of the plates 4, 5 to prevent the divider from shifting lengthwise. The next step will be to comb or brush the lock of hair across the top of the divider, as shown in Figure 9. As this operation is performed, sorne of the hair will pass into the slots 22 and other portions of the hair will pass into the slots 24. As the hair is combed down across the top of the divider, the lock of hair will be dividedy into two sections or strands, one of which is shown at 40 and the other at 41. The latter constitutes those portions of the original lock which entered the slots 24 and are bent down to rest on the roots 25 of the longer grooves; whereas, the portion 4U is that which entered the shallower grooves 22 and rests on the roots 23 at a different level from the roots 25.

The original lock of hair is now divided so that an implement may be passed between the two strands 40, 41.

In Figure l0 I have shown a long hairpin 43, one arin of which may be passed longitudinally through the space 44 between the upper and lower strands of hair which are divided along the divider.

The hairpin may be lifted over the top of the divider as shown in dotted lines in Figure 10, in order to throw the divided strand of hair 40 to the left, and' leaving the other body 41 thrown to the right in Figure 10.

When the hair has thus been divided the divider may be lifted off the frame and removed because it is not necessary in the subsequent operations. In Figure 14 I have shown a plan View of the two rollers to illustrate how the original lock of hair is divided off in the above described operations. It will be apparent that there are a number of hairs in small tufts, as shown at 45, which are turned to the right in Figure 14 from the bight of the rollers and alternating with these tufts are other tufts 46 each consisting of a number of hairs which are turned to the left in Figure 14.

The next step is the winding of the divided strands 40, 41 of hair upon the curling pins. In this operation one of the curling pins shown in Figures 12 and 13 is applied to the end of one of the divided strands of hair, as shown at the right in Figure 11 and after the free end of this divided strand has been applied to the body of the curling pin and a turn made the finger 30 is then closed on the hair. The curling pin is then wound so that the divided strand 41 of hair winds around the body of the curling pin. In Figure 11 the curling pin on the right will be turned counter clockwise as viewed in this ligure, until the entire divided strand has been wound upon the curling pin, whereupon the pin is placed between the end plates so that the stud 27 seats in one of the slots 17 of one of these plates and the square pintle 29 seats in the corresponding slot in the opposite plate. Y

Another curling pin is applied to the opposite, divided strand l0 of the hair, as shown at the left in Figure 11A and this pin is then turned clockwise, as shown in Figure 11, until this divided strand is completely wound upon the pin. This pin is then placed between the plates 4, 5 so that its stud 2,7 seats in one of the slots 17 and the square pintle seats in the corresponding slot 17 in the opposite plate. It will be noted that the winding are not only turned in opposite directions in winding the divided locks upon them, but that the pins are in reverse position so that the square pintle of one pin is seated in the slot of one of the end plates, whereas the squared pintle of the other pin is seated in the slot of the opposite end plate.

When the pins have been engaged in the end plates a key, pliers, or any other instrument is applied to the nut 28 on the end of one of the curling pins and the same is turned so that the pin is revolved while seated in the end plates 4, 5 to further wind the hair upon the pin until the hair engaged by this pin is put under considerable tension. rEhe pin cannot turn backwardly or un wind because there is a clutch within the pin to prevent it trom unwinding as long as the square pintle engages in one of the slots 17 in one of the end plates.

The key or pliers are then applied on the pintle 28 on the other winding pin and turned in order to tighten the hair around the pin and to` place` the hair under tension. This second pin will likewise be prevented from unwinding or releasing the tension as long as the square pintle is seated in one oi the slots of the end plate.

It is apparent that the clutches in the winding pins must prevent turning of the pins in relai tively reverse directions, and for this purpose the pins may be made with right and left hand clutches but it is preferable to have the pins made with similar clutches and to arrange the i s in reverse relation, as shown in Figure 12 in order that all Ythe pins may be constructed alike and may be turned with the same hand, i. e., right hand, during the tightening operation.

The pins having been` applied to the hair and tightened, the heating device is now lowered over the pins and the hair which is wound upon them,

' heater is placed in position and that the necessary moisture may be applied to the hair either directly or by means of pads. The operator will new turn on the current to cause the heater to create the necessary heat around the hair to set the wave, When the hair, which is under tension, has subjected to heat for suicient time to set the wave, the electric heating device is detached. The curling pins are then disengaged from the plates 4, 5 and they are unwound from the hair and removed. The lever 14 is swung and this releases the rollers 1, 2 so` that they may swing apart on the pin 11 and the clamping device may then be removed from the hair.

It will be apparent that the single lock of hair which was divided into two parts or strands adjacent sections of which alternate in relation to each other have been waved in opposite directions; that is to say, one divided strand Lil was wound on the right hand pin in Figure 11 in a counter clockwise direction, whereas the divided strand 40 wound on the left hand pin in Figure 11 was wound in a clockwise direction, so that the divided strands were coiled oppositely to each other.

When the waving device has been removed there will therefore be a lock of hair consisting of two strands composed of small groups or tufts of hair alternating in position with those of the other strand. The entire lock of hair, i. e., the two sections which formed the divided lock during the waving operation, may be combed out from the head so that the hair in the strands mingle with each other. A part of this combined lock has a tendency to coil in one direction, whereas the rest of it has a tendency to coil in a reverse direction. The result of these tendencies is to form a wave similar to that shown in Fig ure 15, which is a Marcel wave or an imitation of a natural wave.

The wave is permanent inasmuch as it was set or made permanent by the heating operation. The hair may be combed any number of times, or it may be brushed and it may be subjected to shampooing, but the wave will always return and will lie in substantially the formation shown in Figure 15. This is the type oi wave which is most desirable and which has heretofore been produced by means of curling irons but itY could not be produced on any of the former permanent waving apparatus. The nearest approach in a wave of the permanent type was the Croquignole which was made by means of one of the curling pins shown and described herein.

I believe I am the rst to have discovered the method and apparatus for producing a real Marcel wave which is permanent as distinguished from the temporary Marcel wave made by means of a curling iron.

The method forming a part of this application has been described in connection with the operation of the apparatus and it consists broadly in dividing a lock of hair into at least two strands, each composed oi tufts of hair separated from an adjacent tuft, the tufts of hair in each strand i alternating with those of the other strand, then winding the divided strands of hair on separate curling pins in reverse directions, subjecting the wound hair to the baking operation to set the wave, and subsequently combing out the lock so that the adjacent tufts of hair having tendencies to curl in opposite directions take the forni of reverse waves commonly called Marcel.

After the operations have been performed as above described, the waving device may be moved to a new position on the head and the clamping device may be applied to another lock of hair and the several operations above described may all be repeated in connection with the new lock of hair. The divider may be detached by lifting it out of thersockets 18 after the lock of hair has been divided and it may be replaced when the device is applied to another lock of hair, or in other words, the divider need only be in place during the actual dividing of a lock of hair, and

for this reason it is made quickly detachable from the waving device.

Having described my invention, what I claim is:

1. The method of waving hair which consists of taking a lock of hair and dividing it into a plurality of strands, each strand comprising small groups of hairs disposed in alternate relation along the original lock of hair to the groups of hairs of the other strand, winding the divided strands of hair upon curlers in reverse directions, subjecting the wound hair to the action of heat to set the'wave, and combing or brushing out the hair to cause the strands to intermingle for the purpose set forth.

2. The method of Waving hair which consists of combing a lock. of hair from the head, the lock consisting of a plurality oi hairs extending along a line of the head, dividing the lock of hair into a plurality of strands, each strand comprising small groups of hairs disposed in alternate relation along the original lock of hair with the groups of hair of the other strand, separately winding the divided strands of hair upon curlers in reverse directions, subjecting the wound hair to the action of heat to set the wave, and combing or brushing out the hair to cause the hairs of both strands to intermingle for the purpose set forth.

3. The method of waving hair which consists of combing out a lock of hair and applying to the hair adjacent the head a holder for clamping the lock of hair, dividing the lock of hair above said holder into a plurality of strands, each strand comprising groups of hairs disposed in alternate relation along the said holder to the groups of hairs of the other strand, winding the divided strands of hair upon curlers in reverse directions, subjecting the wound hair to the action of heat to set the wave, and combing or brushing out the hair to cause the strands to intermingle for the purpose set forth.

4. The method of waving hair which consists of taking a lock of hair and dividing it into a plurality of strands, each strand comprising small groups or" hairs disposed in alternate relation along the original lock of hair to the groups of hairs of the other strand, separately winding the divided strands of hair upon curlers in reverse directions according to the method of winding for a Croquignole wave, subjecting the wound hair to the action of heat to set the wave, and combing or brushing out the strands of hair to cause them to intermingle for the purpose set forth.

5. The method of waving hair which consists of taking a lock of hair, applying a clamp to the lock of hair adjacent the head, dividing the lock of hair above said clamp into a plurality of strands, each strand comprising small groups of hairs disposed in alternate relation along the original lock of hair to the groups of hairs of the other strand, winding the divided strands of hair upon curlers in reverse directions and putting the wound strands of hair under tension, subjecting the wound and tensioned hair to the action of heat to set the wave, and combing or brushing out the hair to cause the strands to intermingle for the purpose set forth.

6. A hair waving device including a frame having end plates, said frame having mounted thereon a plurality of elongated members adapted to grip a lock of hair between them, a plurality of winding pins of the ratchet type, each winding pin being adapted to have wound thereon portions of a lock of hair held by said clamping members, the hair on the respective winding pins being wound in relatively reverse directions, said pins each having a polygonal pintle at one end, said frame having slots to receive said pintles detachably therein and adapted to prevent the unwinding of said pintles, said winding pins being adapted to be held in parallel relation in said frame with the pintles of said winding pins disposed in relatively reverse directions whereby the relatively reversely wound portions of the lock oi hair will be individually tightened on said winding pins.

7. A hair divider comprising a member provided with a row of adjacent, parallel teeth, the slots between certain of said teeth terminating at a different level from the slots of alternating teeth, whereby a lock of hair presented across said row of teeth will be divided into a plurality of groups of hairs lying in different levels, whereby an instrument may be inserted between the two levels of hair for the purpose of dividing the lock of hair into a plurality of strands.

8. A hair divider comprising a member provided with a row of adjacent, parallel slots forming parallel teeth, one group of slots terminating in a common level and another group of slots terminating in a common level, but at a different level from the rst group of slots, the rst and second groups of slots alternating along the row, whereby a lock of hair presented across said row of teeth will be divided into a plurality of groups of hairs lying in different levels according to the bottoms of said grooves, to permit an instrument to be inserted between the hairs in the two levels for the purpose of dividing the lock of hair into a plurality of strands.

9. A hair waving device including a frame having elongated members adapted to clamp a lock of hair between them, a hair divider disposed above the bight of said clamping members, said divider having a row of adjacent, parallel teeth, the slots between certain of said teeth terminating at a different level than the slots of alternate teeth, whereby a lock of hair held by said clamping members may be presented across said row of teeth on the divider for the purpose of dividing a lock of hair into a plurality of separate strands.

10. A hair waving device including a frame having elongated members adapted to clamp a lock of hair between them, a hair divider detachably mounted on said frame above the bight of said clamping members, said divider having a row of adjacent, parallel teeth, the slots between certain of said teeth terminating at a different level from theV slots of alternate teeth whereby a lock of hair held by said clamping members may be presented across the row of said teeth for the purpose of dividing the lock of hair into a plurality of separate strands.

11. A hair waving device including a frame having elongated members adapted to clamp a lock of hair between them, a hair divider detachably supported in said frame in a vertical position above and adjacent to the bight of said clamping members, said hair divider comprising a member having a row of adjacent, parallel teeth, the slots between certain of said teeth terminating at a diierent level from the slots of alternate teeth, whereby a lock of hair held between said clamping members may be presented across the row of teeth and be divided into a plurality of separate strands.

JAMES MACDONALD. 

